Since establishing their label in 2016, brothers Julius and Victor Juul have centered on hardened and edgy stylings for HELIOT EMIL. Its overall utilitarian aesthetic has been defined by sharp lines, rigged textures and an abundance of hardware details. But the brand’s latest for the Spring/Summer 2024 season, leans into layering – taking its overall aesthetic and capabilities into new territory.
Yes, the collection still harbors elements of HELIOT EMIL’s utilitarian core. But the newness here is that Julius and Victor are not just preparing for the street anymore. Their expanded take takes the wearer to the street, dinner table, theater, gala and more as it serves as perhaps the brand’s most sophisticatedly versatile offering to date. Womenswear consumed a considerable portion of the 74 look roster where movement was a key driver. Whether it be dresses or tops, layered fabrics danced with one another for a touch of regality, while streamlined proportions still kept the brand’s clean silhouettes. As a result, the cadence of new silhouettes added a touch of softness to the brand’s designs.
Other standout design styles included reconstructed layered/wrapped tops and blazers that extended to both womenswear and menswear looks. With it, the brothers moved into more elevated looks, while still finding the balance between utilitarianism and edge. Part of how the range of new ensembles came to be is through the brothers’ exploration of AI – analyzing their past and present designs to offer something completely new. Although AI was just a component of envisioning the collection, it is clear that the brothers have their eyes continuously set on finding new ways to embrace the future in evolving their brand.
“I think [this AI experiment] has taught me quite a lot about looking inwards. It also stretched the team creatively on a material level,” Julius Juul told Vogue Runway. “It was so interesting to see all of the signatures that the algorithm spits back at you, like the metal details, the trims, those kind of things, but given that it has less boundaries than what we have in reality, it also came back with some very interesting things that if you looked into closely, can’t be created in reality: seams that there’d be no way to finish, or a part coming out of nowhere. That was a very interesting complexity to grasp; the machine doesn’t understand physics in the real world.”
Take a look at HELIOT EMIL’s SS24 collection in the gallery above.
In case you missed it, Peter Do let the clothes do the talking for SS24.
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